Richard Ehrlich
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Samuel Johnson told Boswell: "No man but a blockhead ever wrote, except for money." He might have amended that view had he lived in the era of digital communication. Being paid to write is a privilege, but the opportunity to hear from readers swiftly and spontaneously is equally gratifying. Though in a different way, needless to say. These thoughts arise because several readers have pointed out a recent mistake of mine: a reference to uncooked meals as being a carbon-free way to feed people. This is not true. Mark McElroy, one of those who wrote to me, points out that refrigeration uses energy. "Heating and cooling by the same temperature change uses the same amount of energy." I’m not sure that they use the same amount of energy and am making enquiries, but the fundamental error is there: refrigerating food uses energy. Note to Mr McElroy and the others who rapped my knuckles: thank you. Note to self: nothing is carbon-free.
The e-mails got me musing idlyon uncooked dishes that require no refrigeration, but still reach gastronomic heights. A good Greek salad is one. Even better: a tomato, olive and coriander salad suggested by another reader, Susan Doran. Thinly sliced tomatoes, layered on a plate with chopped coriander or parsley and sliced olives, seasoned with olive oil, cumin powder and salt. Cover and leavefor 30 minutes at room temperature. Serve with bread and (optional) chunks of cheese. Better still is Tuscan panzanella, a salad based on chunks of white bread – traditionally, stale leftovers wetted with water to soften them. Combined with tomatoes, onion, peppers, celery, capers, anchovies and garlic, this is about as good a summer dish as you will find. And it uses up the stale bread. Someone will trash my description of panzanella, no doubt, but that’s what I’m here for. Keep those e-mails comin’, folks. They keep me on my toes.
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