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Are critics out of touch with what the public like to eat? Post your views below
Owners of the recently opened Chicago Rib Shack in Knightsbridge have hit back at food critics, saying they are out of touch with what the wider public want to eat.
In its opening weeks the restaurant attracted a "slating" from high-profile food reviewers.
"This is, to put it simply, just so you don’t forget, terribly bad food. And it’s terribly bad food from the bad past," wrote The Sunday Times' AA Gill.
"As a restaurant, the food doesn't cut the mustard," says Will Fulford-Jones of Time Out and Metro's Marina O'Loughlin declared, the "food is almost uniformly ghastly".
It seems the underlying argument is that food and palates have evolved over the past 10 years. People now seek a sophisticated, cleaner, more wholesome dining experience as opposed to the caveman-like proportions of sizzling beef and pork, dripping in sticky barbecue sauce and deep-fried accompaniaments served up at the shack.
And yet, three months after opening, the 200-plus seat restaurant continues to pack its tables, night after night.
Jon Yantin, director and co-owner of the shack, said there was a place for American-style restaurants in London and turning over up to 1000 covers a day was testament to that.
"We weren't surprised by the reviews because of the style of the food we serve, but what did surprise us is how vicious they were. We're not a fine-dining restaurant and we never portayed ourselves to be one. You have to put it into context.
"You come here for the ambience, the atmosphere, the service, the vibe. The food is only one reason to visit. It's more about having a fun night out than purely a dining experience."
Yantin said London was a restaurant haven, but critics were out of touch with the wider public and what they really wanted to eat.
"It's all about fine dining these days. We are bombarded with messages that we should be eating healthily on something that resembles a small piece of uncooked fish.
"We are not this kind of restaurant. We're about big portions of fried food. We're not saying eat it every night, but why not have some fun once in a while."
Even before it opened there were big expectations for the restaurant, primarily because it is a reinvention of the original and extremely successful Chicago Rib Shack established in 1982 by Bob Payton. The restaurant closed when its lease expired in December 1999. The nostalgic element from those who remembered the shack of old was always going to put pressure on the new arrival. But if anyone was going to revive the restuarant, Yantin and his business partner Adrian Hartley, as former employees of the original shack, were probably the best-placed to do so.
Yantin believed it gave them a greater insight into what the original restaurant set out to achieve.
"Having worked at the original we were aware of the ethos, where it came from, what it wanted to achieve," he said, that is to be the best barbecue family dining restaurant in London.
"We knew we couldn't recreate exactly what had been before. What we've given is a new menu that has the backbone of the original using specialised meats and evolved it by injecting elements of its St Louis origins and elements of local provenance."
The shack goes through four-to-five tonnes of meat a week and all of it is organic, sourced from English suppliers. The beef hails from Laverstock Park in Overton, Hampshire, while the pork is sourced from Eastbrook farm in Wiltshire. The meat spices are all natural, with no preservatives or additives and Yantin said all the food is hand-made and prepared.
Although going organic wasn't a conscious decision, Yantin said utilising ethical farming methods was more relevant and met the restaurant's needs better than alternative options.
"This is where our marketing may have been misconstrued," he said. "Because our meat is organic, people immediately assume its healthy. This is not the case."
"In the end, we did our best. I'm not sure what the critics expected. We did have some teething problems in the service area but they have be recitfied now."
Whatever the critics expected, it seems the rib shack's customers don't all share the same view, as shown by these patrons' comments.
"Have eaten there it is great. Will definitely revisit lots!" said one. "I had such a great night at the 'shack'. Great vibe, great service, perfect portions and there is something for everyone! It is what it is ... a rib shack," declared another, and finally "welcome back old friend, you've been sorely missed".
Book a table at Chicago Rib Shack.
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After a night of so called fine dining, i like to stop for a kebab on the way home.. I don't like to go, to bed on an empty stomach.. Lets have more Rib Shacks..........
mark, London, England
Don't you think the only critic you should trust is yourself, after all you're the only one who really knows what you want on any given day. And as for any one from ANY country slagging off an entire nation for food they might have had at some point is, well, a bit stupid
Steve, Newcastle , UK
why do critics praise all the "top restaurants" when most of us that can or are willing to pay 100 pounds for a meal hate the food and go away hungry because all we get is a gold fish with spittal poured over the top- yuck! critics must love a snail tail on there plate.
s ameron, enfield, middx.
Well, I had a great experience dining at Fawlty Towers, the boiled sole was marvelous, until heel, then the nails got me. The waiter was a bit nervous all the time, lots of clanging in the kitchen. I'll return, but with a football helmet and false teeth. Highly recommended!
Mark , Spokane, Washington, USA
I was in Hong Kong in January with my son. We both love ribs and we found Dan Ryan's. The waitress even pointed out the message at the bottom of the menu, "remember these are American portions". Nevertheless we ordered the rib and chicken combo. A big rack of delicious ribs hid half a chicken! WOW
Brian Faulkner, Bridgwater, UK
Those who hold up US fast food chains are as guilty of attempts to stereotype, they are not representative of American cooking, any more than Wimpy's or the ghastly Little Chef chains are representative of British cooking. I've had very good English food outside of London.
Marie, Boston, MA US
Peter G, I agree with you. As an American living in London, I do have to point out that there is some amazing food here. Those Americans who only found bad food probably went to tourist restaurants or poor gastro pubs, not some of the better food places known to actual residents.
Liane, London, England
Mr. Waldron:
The statement, "No statue was ever erected to a critic," is attributed to composer Jean Sibelius.
Robert Laughlin, Chico, CA, USA
How come these comment boards end up in some kind of nasty UK Vs US mud slinging. Look everyone, there is both great food and terrible food in America and there is both great food and terrible food in Britain. I love good ribs, I also love a good roast and in London there is plenty of room for both.
Peter G, London, UK
I dont belive all the meat is organic. The UK does not produce enough organic meat to keep regular supplies that a restaurant needs especially the volumes quoted in the article.
It seems someone is lying, either his suppliers or the owner. The price on organic is too dear for a restaurant also.
david b, stockport, england
i think food criticis are way out of touch with people who eat "out"
and critics don 't really careabout it. i was a chef trained by madelaine kamman, one of the best chefs ever who loved great food.
i hope he trend towards more veg'sand grains as being interesting works..chez panesse of berkley ca
gremolata, south natick,ma, usa
Brad
Have you eaten here since 1954. Or did you just read somewhere that the British diet consists of boiled fish and vegetables (Enid Blyton, Biggles?). Or were you just put off by the tiny, tiny portions?
And where is this restaurant that serves baked beans?
Angela , London,
To our American Friends
One of the strangest features of the London restaurant scene is the lack of any native british cooking, at least outside of the high-priced, largely experimental range. But you guys have found lots and lots. You do know that KFC and Ben and Jerry's are american, don't you?
Faisal, London,
I would remind all the Americans spouting the usual "They hate everything American", that all us Brits eat is Pizza Hut, McDonalds, Burger King, KFC and TV dinners! Now, can you tell me where all that food came from?
Nemo, Manchester, England
If you read the American comments about London food, remember that they don't know better.
With their rapidly declining dollar, the only restaurants they can afford are Wimpey's or some ghastly low-rent mess.
Steve Guy, Lynn, UK
If you want to eat good food or watch a great movie, avoid like the plague anything recommended by a critic. The shrewd consumer knows that is exactly the same as saying that anything they pan is probably the best there is!
Now who was it said there are no statues of critics anywhere?
Andrew Waldron, Bournemouth, UK
I am from the US. Pray tell, what is food on a stick? Kebobs? I wouldn't mind trying chicago style ribs. I was raised in Georgia and am familiar with mostly southern styles of ribs. Different foods need to be appreciated or not for what they are, and eaten in proper proportion.
Deb, Boston MA, USA
"the comments from people from the US make me laugh, this from a nation that eat most food on sticks! "
Really? How fascinating. And you came by this information from...from where, exactly?
Maggie, New York City,
I think many of the bad reviews weren't snobby - they praised other BBQ joints like Bodeans and pointed out how massively inferior this place was. I'm sure some of the reviews have missed the point, and consisted of middle class critics lining up to sniff at prole food, but others were spot on.
drew huge, Tonbridge,
If you look at the picture of the ribs, notice that they are properly smoked: The way to tell is that when you look at the sliced surface, they are a nice pink, instead of grey.
By the way, if you're in New York City, some of the best ribs east of the Mississippi are at RUB on West 23rd.
Dan Schwartz, Sayreville, NJ, USA
As someone who lives in London, the range and diversity of restaurants in the capital is amazing, cuisine from around the globe. Admittedly some places are poor, some outstanding. However the comments from people from the US make me laugh, this from a nation that eat most food on sticks!
Danny, London, UK
What do you have to do to become a food critic in the UK? (insert joke here)
Tom, Dayton, U.S.
Brits don't hate American food. Have any of you yanks ever seen how many KFCs there are in London? Although I do agree, native British food is nasty!
Gary, Miami, FL, USA
There is this steakhouse in London that is in the old Texas embassy (yeah the real deal Texas Republic era) and its ALWAYS packed. Course most Brits say its crap. They think that they are more fit than the US but its really just not true.
joshua, Huntingdon,
I think this is just a reflection on the English taste of food in general....I mean has anyone ever eaten in London? ITS NASTY. Ugly pale vegatables boiled untill just a soggy mess on your plate, nasty fish (probly boiled too), and a big helping of baked beans????LOL . They just hate anything USA
brad, austin , usa
Isn't that the way it always is with reviews? From clothes to movies...these critics are just out of touch.
Kara Tyson, Mobile, AL , USA
I'd be curious enough to try it out next time I'm in the UK. Food on the plate looks good but it appears to be not really seared enough for the true Chicago experience. I'd be the first guy to invite the reviewers to Chicago and show them a few places.
Jack Valentine, Chicago, USA
As an American, I find all this interesting. It also seems the good critics over there are woefully ignorant. Good ribs are a delicacy unto themselves; slow-cooked for many hours to turn them succulent cuts, with just the right blend of dry-rub spices or sauces to complement the meat.
David Marcoe, Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA
The owner dude's comment about context is spot on. The critic simply forgot where he was and what he was eating. If you go into a rib joint with steak au poivre on your mind you're likely to be disappointed.
Pat Smith, Honolulu, USA
I love this kind of food. Will definitely check it out next time I'm in London. Food critics are worthless.
I disagree with one of his BBQ tips - marinating flank steak (or any kind of meat) in pineapple juice. Pineapple enzimes turn the meat into gray goo! Use acids: lemon/lime juice/vinegar.
Dimitri, New York City, USA
Get someone from Chicago to review it. Then you'll have an accurate review.
I take the advice of Chinese friends on good local Chinese restaurants, Japanese friends for Japanese restaurants, etc.
BTW California generally has mediocre Indian food except some places in Silicon Valley.
Melissa, California, USA
i am originally from chicago. when i was in london, i could not believe how lousy the food was. so in my opinion, the critics probably would not know good food if it bit them. besides, chicago style cooking isn't for everyone---just the ones who really enjoy it.
john, albuquerque, usa
I am a critics critic. I read Gill's opinions and let me say He is, to put it simply, just so you dont forget, a terribly bad critic. And He is a terribly bad critic from the bad past.
Pierre, Parma, Italy
How can people feel nostalgia for the old "heart-attack on a plate"? It would be irresponsible for any food critic to encourage us to eat this American rubbish. Don't we have enough obesity problems already in this country?
Paul, Gwynedd, UK
in Italy we have a lot of says, one that fit perfectly is:
if you know just a little bit, become a teacher
if you know a bit less, become a p. e. teacher
if you really don't know anything at all, then become a critic.
edoardo chioni, rome, italy
In the case of Gill how would we know?
We know what he thinks about a good number of subjects, but he seldom talks about food except in the odd aside as an adjunct to his witty take on the entire universe...... entire that is apart from food.
Simon Ellis, Exeter, UK
London and all major cities these days are hugely diverse and cosmopolitan places, yet there is no diversity in the make up of critics especially food critics. I don't rate them and dont listen to them. Sonny - I think the food in Bangkok is generally better than in London, best of all the street.
Randeep, London,
I have had concerns for a while about the direction food critics were going. There is a definite visciousness about reviews now that seems to parallel the level of viscous reporting of politicians and celebrities. We who produce food to the best of our abilities need more empathy from the consumers.
Tiffany Smith, Vernet-les-Bains, France
Message to Mr. A.A. Gill : If the clientel of a new restaurant aren't dressed in tuxedos and evening dresses you can be sure that a man of your gourmet sensitivity won't like the food. Don't go in there. Leave the seats vacant for people like me who live in the real world and like to eat real food.
Dr. Jimmy, Nottingham, England
It is all too often the case that restaurant critics don't judge a restaurant on it's aspirations. Consequently an inexpensive restaurant s judged in the same way as an expensive restaurant.
E.g. of it's type MacDbnalds is bad, but some, small, privately owned burger bars serve great burgers.
Marc, Paris, France
I cannot imagine why anyone would pay attention to a paid critic.Go find out for yourself.Why take another's word for it?I notice that a lot of movies that the critics rave over,I find to be terrible.Why would food critics be any different?
ron, toronto,
"Because our meat is organic, people immediately assume its healthy. This is not the case."
What a really silly comment to make!!
Bella, Bath, UK
All food is organic, except salt. What they call 'organic' food is food produced using only impure chemicals.
Frank Upton, Solihull,
Have to agree with the restaurant. Here in Bangkok the dining places that get the rave reviews have lousy service and even worse food and add sky high prices to that. To even find good Thai food here in the capitol of Thailand is hard to do. Better to eat in a sidewalk walk up and take your chances.
Sonny, Bangkok, Thailand
I USED TO FREQUENT THE ORIGINAL and tried the new rib shak recently. It was late lunchtime there was only one other table occupied.The place was teaming with staff but the service was slow.I waited 20 minutes for the meal. The ribs were tender but lacked taste.
LAWRENCE, london, UK
I agree that most food critics are out of touch with the public. That goes to all critics actually, be it food, movie, theatre, etc.
Sarath Palety, Aylesbury, UK