What is it and where is it from?

Watercress (Nasturtium officinale) is a native plant grown in calcium-rich running water on gradually sloping beds. UK grown watercress is mostly produced in southern Wiltshire, Hampshire and Dorset.

What is its heritage?

Cultivation in specially constructed beds using water from chalk springs may go back to the Middle Ages; large-scale production began in Kent and the Thames valley in the early 19th century.

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In London, bunches of watercress became street food, often bought for breakfast by labourers on their way to work. Development of rail transport took the crop to large urban markets, and cultivation spread to parts of Wiltshire, Hampshire and Dorset.

Pure water, now supplied by boreholes, is essential. The water is discharged into surface watercourses; no pesticides are allowed and fertiliser additions are minimal, used only when the cress is growing very fast.

Production differences between large (a relative term) and small producers, and traditional and non-traditional systems are subtle. Larger ones rely more on machines to harvest, and propogate seed in greenhouses (at which point fungicides may be used on the growing seedlings), restocking beds several times a year.

Smaller producers hand-cut, bunch and regrow more. The curving boundaries of smaller watercress beds hugging valley contours also contribute a local distinctiveness to the countryside.

Conversion of many watercress beds to fish farms in the late 20th century, difficulties obtaining planning permission for new ones, and increased and out-of-season demand combined with stagnating prices have led to some growers establishing farms abroad.

What does it look and taste like?

Curled deep green leaves with a refreshing, peppery flavour; traditionally sold in bunches of 3 – 4 ounces/100g, which should contain a label with the name of the grower; look also for an NFU code of practice symbol, guaranteeing water quality.

How is it used?

As salad, in sandwiches, to garnish fish, roast chicken or duck, in sauces and soups.

Where can I buy it?

Watercress grown in the UK is in season March to November, although some may be available in mild winters; sold in fresh produce markets and grocers. Some small organic producers supply local veg box schemes in the growing area, and Alresford in Hampshire hosts a watercress festival on 11th May this year.

©Laura Mason

Slow Food is an international eco-gastronomic movement which promotes the enjoyment and protection of locally grown produce. For more information on how to join your regional convivium and forthcoming events: www.slowfood.org.uk

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