The finest food store I know anywhere is Peck, in Milan. Despite its myriad wonders, it is the veal section that astonishes. It offers braising cuts, roasting joints, scaloppine, fillets and the city’s favourite, the famous veal chop – possibly as much a part of everyday life in Milan as shopping at Armani. Here, it is simply cooked with butter and sage.

Serves 2

Salt and pepper
2 veal chops, well trimmed
A little plain flour, for dusting
A thick slice of butter, plus a little extra
A slug of olive oil 10-12 fresh sage leaves
2-4 lemon wedges

Season the chops and dust lightly with the flour. In a large, heavy-based frying pan, melt the slice of butter with the olive oil until it starts to foam. Add the chops and reduce the heat a little. Leave to sizzle quietly for 7-10 minutes on each side, until golden and just firm to the touch. (A uniform pink interior is ideal.) Place on a serving dish and keep warm in the oven at a very low heat. Add a little butter to the pan and turn up the heat. When the fats are frothing, fling in the sage and stir until the leaves begin to crisp and curl; take care that the butter does not burn. Place the chops on two plates, spoon over the sage butter and put the lemon wedges on the side to squeeze over. Serve at once.

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