Twenties

Twentysomething skin has it all: adequate production of sebum to hydrate and protect, cell turnover at its optimum and the last remaining years of a chiefly wrinkle-free face. It’s not all good, however: post-teenage skin can be a little overzealous. The sebaceous glands, which produce oil, are prone to going into overdrive, leading to blocked or enlarged pores. Plus, if you’re a girl with a less than wholesome diet and a penchant for hanging out in smog-filled cities, your skin will be crying out for some extra TLC. To combat this, adopt the mantra: “Cleanse! Cleanse! Cleanse!” Kersten Young, corporate trainer at The International Dermal Institute, recommends double cleansing: “Twice in the morning and twice in the evening to remove any debris and excess sebum built up through the night.”

Kiehl’s Foaming Non-Detergent Washable Cleanser (£16; 020 7240 2411) is great for oily skin, as it removes all traces of make-up without leaving a residue. Use a mild exfoliator such as Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant (£31; 0800 591818), a rice-based powder that you mix with water, to slough off dead skin cells.

Once you have got into good cleansing habits, follow suit with daily sun protection. Chanel developed its Beauté Initiale line with twentysomething women in mind after finding that 78% of French women between the ages of 20 and 35 already have visible signs of ageing. Its Multi-Protection Fluid (£46) is light enough for daily use and contains an SPF15 to stave off early deterioration.

Though still plump and youthful, even a late twentysomething face can show fine lines, starting around the eyes. Pre-empt them with a light eye cream. Aveda Green Science Firming Eye Cream (£30; 0870 034 2380) contains cactus and argan oil to reduce puffiness around the eyes and smooth out lines.

Zits, spots, pimples — sometimes it seems there is no respite from the troublesome elements of teenage skin. So keep a bottle of Mario Badescu Drying Lotion (£15.50; hqhair.com) to hand. Left overnight, it’s the only thing to dry out spots and send them packing. A special mention goes to the new YSL Top Secrets Flash Radiance Skincare Brush (£34). The seaweed and caffeine awaken tired, partied-out skin, while the light-reflecting pigments leave you with an angelic glow. A true future classic.

Thirties

No need for a distress call just yet. But your thirties are the years when you need to invest; think of it as storing up skin savings. “As you get to 30, your collagen and elastin start to be depleted,” warns the facialist Amanda Lacey. “So you have to address this; it’s more about prevention than anti-ageing.”

“Ageing has set in,” agrees Noella Gabriel of Elemis. “Of course, it’s important to point that out that this can be accelerated by lifestyle.” For the record, she says, the signs of ageing skin are “thinning and also getting dry — those are the two things we’re trying to manage”. To do so, implement a skincare routine, rather than a haphazard care scheme, and ensure boosters are factored in. And stay out of the sun; if you are in sunny climes, Lacey recommends Institut Esthederm sun care (from £39; spacenk.co.uk). “I think it’s the best,” she says.

At 30, “just using a moisturiser isn’t enough”, says Lacey. Use a serum first to give a boost. Lacey’s own Incredible Pink Serum (£85; amandalacey.com) helps to reduce fine lines, and REN Rose Synergy O12 Restoring Facial Serum (£40; renskincare.com) will help to protect against free radicals. “You won’t need a heavy moisturiser on top, as it will overload the skin,” Lacey says. She also suggests a night oil to help keep skin moisturised during this key repair time; again, this should not be too heavy. Try Sarah Chapman’s new Skinesis Overnight Facial (£42; spacenk.co.uk).

An anti-ageing moisturiser starts to come into its own now. Try Guerlain Success Future range (from £51), which not only has a promising-sounding name, but also uses amber (for revitalising) and tensotrophin (a molecule that controls the basic mechanisms of skin ageing) to help minimise wrinkles and boost firmness.

Beware of problem areas such as the eyes and neck. Use an eye cream daily; This Works: Tired Eye Serum (£30; thisworks.com) is one of the best. “The neck often gets forgotten, but, my goodness, when you wear an off-the-shoulder dress, it can let you down,” says Gabriel. “Apply a neck cream every day using upward movements — no need to get too caught up in the technique.” Try Elemis Pro-Collagen Neck and Bust cream (£70; timetospa.co.uk).

Forties

The fabulous forties throw up a whole new host of skin concerns: the cumulative effect of UV exposure, changes in hormones, and the first signs of the menopause, which has in impact on the levels of oestrogen and affects the structure and appearance of skin. A loss of definition, especially in the lower face, can betray signs of age, so choose a product that will help to recapture lost firmness. The silky Carita Pearl of Youth Serum (£80; 020 7313 8780), with sweet almond proteins and mother-of-pearl extract, helps to encourage a smooth, even skin tone.

The texture of skin is also affected — a distinct loss of moisture paves the way for fine lines, crow’s feet and puffiness around the eyes. “Since the skin around the eyes is more delicate than the rest of the face, using a special eye cream is important,” says Bobbi Brown. A light cream such as Kanebo Sensai Eye Contour Cream (£68; harrods.com) will help to soothe puffiness around the eyes, reducing telltale signs of stress and fatigue.

“Skin also tends to dry out as we age, so keeping it hydrated is essential,” Brown says. Her Rich Cream Cleanser (£16; bobbibrown.co.uk) contains extracts of wheat-germ oil and lavender that work to lock in moisture.

Getting enough sleep is crucial, and a super-rich formula such as L’Oréal Revitalift Night Cream (£13), the closest you’ll come to a good night’s sleep in a jar, will help to maintain a fresh, radiant complexion. However, not all beauty is skin deep, and taking a twice-daily supplement that works from the inside out can also counter signs of ageing. Imedeen Time Perfection tablets (£38.50; imedeen.co.uk) are jam-packed with minerals proven to enhance the skin’s natural moisture balance and assist cell renewal.

Fifties

Let’s dispense with the platitudes — the menopause is skin hell. It’s amazing how rapidly your face heads south post-change. So, it’s good to know that cosmetics companies are on the case. This month, for instance, the skincare veteran Nivea launches Expert Lift, an anti-sagging system for 50-plus women.

By the time you hit the half century, you will start to show it. Lips will purse, even if you haven’t smoked for 20 years, and freckles bond into nicotine-coloured blobs. Lancôme Absolue Ultimate Beta x Serum (£105), containing Pro-Xylane (a natural sugar extracted from beech pulp) firms and nourishes the skin, while kojic acid (from mushrooms) helps to fade age spots. Those on tighter budgets should try Skin Wisdom Restore and Replenish Wrinkle Concentrate (£6, from Tesco). It was formulated by the holistic skincare guru Bharti Vyas and contains line-blurring peptides and oat extracts to tone, and soy, wild yam and calcium-rich extracts firm and restore structure.

While your waistline blubbers up, your face sheds weight. In the first five oestrogen- deprived years post-menopause, the skin loses up to 30% of its collagen, the scaffold protein that firms it up. Decléor Aromessence Excellence (£70) uses essential oils and plant extracts to strengthen collagen, fight free radicals and fade age spots. Use it as a booster under moisturiser, and on the chest and hands. The jelly-like substance between cells dwindles, too, so skin starts to sag. A slowdown in cell turnover — from a youthful 28 days to more than double that — gives rise to an aged surface barrier that not only looks parched, it sheds moisture. L’Oréal Age Re-Perfect Pro-Calcium Radiance Restoring Day Cream (£16) is designed for 60-plus skin that lacks calcium, a common cause of acute dryness. “Because skin gets drier, there’s an obvious need for more emollient formulas,” says Dr Sue Mayou, a consultant dermatologist and co-founder and secretary of the British Cosmetic Dermatology Group. “By 50, we’re well aware that our skin is ageing. But it’s not too late to look after it,” she says encouragingly.

Try Clarins Super Restorative Night Wear (£64). The plant oestrogens boost collagen to hydrate and improve skin density, night jasmine reduces redness and soft pink pigments help the skin to look less tired.

But above all, ensure your cream is one you enjoy using — the consequences can, it seems, be therapeutic. In a study sponsored by L’Oréal, elderly hospital patients who were given a daily dose of skin cream were so boosted, they began to walk taller and balance better, so were less likely to fall. “The way we walk is influenced by our state of mind and image of our body, particularly the face,” says the geriatrician Dr Olivier Beauchet, who led the study. Skin cream as the new Zimmer frame? Finally, something to look forward to.

Joanna McGarry, Edwina Ings-Chambers, Francesca White and Vicki Bentley

Lost in lingo?

AHAs Alpha hydroxy acids are exfoliating agents that remove dead cells from the skin’s surface, leaving behind smooth skin.

Collagen Very large molecules in some moisturisers that inflate on contact with water on the skin’s surface. Reduces the appearance of lines by “pushing out” wrinkles.

Elastin protein that can help to improve skin’s elasticity and resilience — commonly found in anti-ageing products .

Free radicals Highly charged particles within the body, caused by obesity, smoking and exposure to the sun, that are harmful to the skin. Protect against them with a moisturiser containing SPF and vitamins C and E.

Humectant An ingredient that forms hydrogen bonds in order to capture and hold on to water, so providing long-lasting moisture.

Hyaluronic acid A natural moisturising factor in the skin that retains water, working in the same way as collagen.

Hyperpigmentation Often caused by sun damage (ie, age spots and brown spots). It occurs when areas of the skin overproduce intensely pigmented melanin in reaction to UV radiation. Use exfoliating agents such as AHAs to reduce the pigmentation and products with UV filters to prevent future damage.

Pentapeptides/peptides Well known but little understood ingredients made famous through the Olay adverts. These amino-acid chains stimulate cell turnover to help produce younger-looking skin.

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Primer A product used under foundation to give improved texture to the skin and help make-up to stay in place longer. Primers often contain silicone, which will “fill in” surface imperfections such as fine lines, large pores and uneven skin. Primers should be used in addition to moisturiser, as they are intended to sit on the skin, rather than sink in. We love Laura Mercier Foundation Primer, £27; spacenk.co.uk

Highlighter These are creams, liquids or powders that are used to highlight the skin. Typically, areas that should be highlighted are the top of the cheekbones, forehead, bridge of nose and the brow bone. Highlighting gives dimension and shape to the face, and creams work wonderfully under the eye to counteract dark circles. A good highlight colour should be one to two shades lighter than the complexion. We love Benefit High Beam, £15.50; benefitcosmetics.co.uk

Illuminator These are meant to illuminate, brighten or bounce light from the skin’s surface. As the skin ages, its ability to hold moisture within cells is compromised. Illuminators give the illusion that surface skin cells are plump and full of water, which creates a more youthful feeling. Illuminating products draw attention to the skin’s surface, so they should be placed where skin is at its best. Apply an illuminator in the same way as you would a highlighter. We love Clarins Instant Light Complexion Perfector, £21.50

Mattifier Anything that matts the surface of the skin. These products are usually oil-absorbing, so they can deplete hydration from the skin’s surface. If skin is not excessively oily, a mattifying product is probably not needed. If it is, it’s best to apply a mattifier only to the T-zone to prohibit oil from breaking through the surface of complexion products. We love Dior Icône Crème-to-Powder Makeup, £23

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