Winter coats are not the first thing that springs to mind after the August
Bank Holiday - even for a fashion journo. Which I suppose is a little odd,
seeing as these days the potential to wear a coat, weather-wise, is all year
round.
Bearing in mind that you may not take yours off for the next 12 months, it's a
good idea to ensure you make an informed style choice. And sharp-ish, too,
because winter coats - especially the well-made, super-on-trend ones that
are available on the high street right now - have a tendency to sell out.
Adopting the early-bird approach will be very much worth your while, because
nothing pulls you together as much as a great coat. It's not only a physical
tool, providing instant armour against the elements, but a psychological
one, helping to create the right impression every time you leave the house.
It also helps that this winter happens to be the “season of the coat”. Roughly
translated from catwalk hyperbole, this means that there is an unprecedented
amount of choice for the winter-coat shopper. We have rounded up the best
shapes out there; now you just need to pick your vibe.
Cocoon
The logical evolution after seasons of designer experimentation with volume
and curves. Get over the idea that the cocoon will make you look six months
pregnant; this shape is not to be confused with the smock. Years of
fine-tuning as well as a certain structure make this coat a very
fashion-forward item. And while it may have the hallmarks of a one-season
trend, strong, sculptural forms should be sticking around for a while to
come.
How to make it work: Team this coat either with straight 7/8-length trousers,
a shift dress or slim-ish skirts - and you'll definitely need high, blocky
shoes to balance everything out.
Stunning and dramatic though it is on the catwalk, this shape does need to be
considered carefully by the 99 per cent of us who don't resemble
supermodels. A jacket that ends on or just below the waist will be easier to
carry off, especially when teamed with skinny trousers to create the
illusion of length. If your legs are not your best feature, make sure your
coat length doesn't fall too low. Ditto if you are very petite; it will
engulf you.
Military
OK, this is not strictly speaking a new trend or shape, but it is worth
pointing out that military coats do not need to look as literal as they have
in recent winters: so no SAS trooper, Bolshevik guard or Darth Vader styles.
This is investment dressing at its best: choose wisely and you could be
reaping the rewards for years to come. The appeal of military is all in the
detail - a serried row of buttons, the glint of sparkly epaulettes or piping
- but don't go for anything too obvious.
How to make it work: Team with cashmere polonecks, some chunky gold jewellery
or patent shoes. Trousers as well as skirts work with this coat, but you
could even dress it down a bit by pairing with jeans. Your accessories,
though, should not have military accents (let's not go overboard). Our
favourite style on the high street comes from French Connection.
Collarless
There's no need to revisit the Nineties: yes, the tailoring is key and
sometimes the buttons are concealed, but this time round the addition of
belting can do interesting things to the silhouette. For the more
adventurous out there, try a “ringmaster” coat complete with tail flaps that
gives an air of mystery, romance and drama and can be found at YSL in black
or grey tweed. If you want waist definition, choose something with a belt.
There's a slight Sixties feel to this shape - to avoid everything looking
too retro, add some chunky shoes and bold jewellery to create a strong
fashion statement.
How to make it work: This coat looks great with a skinny pair of peg-leg
trousers (see p14-15). If you're wearing a dress or skirt with this, make
sure that it is not more voluminous than the width of the coat, or it will
appear very bulky. Collarless coats can also appear a little stretched over
the bust sometimes, so try on your purchase with the kind of layers you are
likely to wear.
Shaggy
At first glance, this is the coat of choice for those wishing to reconnect
with their inner Bohemian. By all means load on the bright, patterned gilets
and the contents of Grandma's jewellery box, but if you want to make this
look up to date, the trick is actually to explore the super pared-down
avenue. Teamed with lots of black, a shiny neck piece, killer heels and
skinny trousers, “the shaggy” confers the gloss of a French Vogue dominatrix.
How to make it work: I personally think that this is a coat that should be
kept for night, or if you have to wear it during the day, only when it is
really cold. That shaggy mane can look a little “ratty” in daylight. If
you're on the petite side, consider a gilet instead as a whole coat may
swamp you. Otherwise, head to Topshop, which sells cropped versions in black
or a nude pink for £125. As the shaggy is voluminous on top, whatever you
wear below will need to be very slim-fitting in order to balance out the
proportions.
Sleeveless
The newest kid on the block, the sleeveless shape is not only stylish but very
practical. Those jammed into a crowded bus or Tube carriage need swelter no
more.
And what other style allows you to layer for England? The sleeveless coat
shape offers the potential to see other outfit components, thus encouraging
you to add more colour to your outfit. Marni pulled this off brilliantly at
the shows, juxtaposing clashing shades, but if you're feeling less daring,
try matching things tonally: chocolate brown, say, with a paler camel. You
can also have fun experimenting with different textures.
How to make this work: To create a more waisted look, opt for a belt and don't
wear too much underneath as this will cause a lot of bulk. Ideally skirt
lengths will not be much longer than the coat hem. The deep V at the front
is very on-trend, but it can be slightly reminiscent of Eighties air
hostesses, so resist the urge to buy into airline-style primary colours.
Good work.
Janet, Edinburgh,
Thanks for that Edina, I'll keep it in mind.
Charles Murray, Toronto, Canada