We drove up to the house to find Will waiting outside, as arranged. “All done,
fresh fish included,” he said, handing over a neatly ticked shopping list as
he led the way into a bright and thoroughly appealing interior.
“Will bass do, caught this morning?” An impressive opening gambit, this, by
any standard of service; beyond belief, you might think, at the start of a
self-catering week in Bude, north Cornwall.
The British preference for private holiday space has spawned a huge
self-catering industry, but one that doesn’t always deliver. Too often, your
average cottage rental can prove a protracted exercise in figuring out the
eccentricities of how somebody else’s house works, not least getting into it
in the first place: the key under the mat (eventually located under a flower
pot); the unfathomable instructions on how to work the hot water; the aged
plastic folder containing fliers for dubious local attractions; and the
phone number for a woman who “might be available to baby-sit”.
All part of the fun, some might say, and for a moment I actually missed those
time-honoured rigmaroles. But I soon got over it. Who needs misplaced
nostalgia when there’s a kitchen that’s been equipped down to the last
utensil? (And try telling me you’ve never puréed through a colander, served
salad in a saucepan or resorted to some other makeshift classic of
self-catering.) What chance eccentric charm when you have bathrooms with
pond-sized baths, CD players, fluffy towels and power showers with unlimited
hot water, and a widescreen TV in the sitting room, with every last
children’s, sport and movie channel?
But it’s the personal touch, as much as the facilities, that makes the
difference. Will played the off-premises concierge to a fault. He booked
lessons with local instructors (surfing for me; pony-riding for my
daughters) and pointed out some favourite local walks and the best tearooms
in the area.
He directed us to a cinema, the fabulously unlikely Rebel, in Poundstock,
which we would never have guessed existed; dropped round free firewood;
organised real live baby-sitters; and did the week’s shopping, including
that wonderful bass. And no question of arrangement fees, unlike some hotels
I could mention.
Will typifies the new breed of responsive, often small-scale self-catering
operators who truly have something to shout about; quality private lets with
hotel standards of service. Even so, boutique self-catering in Bude, byword
for Cornish dowdy? The truth is that this Victorian resort is scrubbing up
fast, shedding a long-term veneer of dosshouse and pebble dash to reveal a
seriously attractive town beneath.
The three beaches proved a revelation, too; not only did they score top marks
for surfing and golden sand, they went on for ever at low tide, with the
bonus of some excellent rock pools.
Surfing, riding, visits to Arthur’s crag-top castle at Tintagel and to the
excellent organic tearooms in Poundstock — all this kept us happily busy.
But the star of the week could only be the house; all the comfort you could
wish for, views over the Atlantic surf, and enough assistance to make the
very most of it.
Breakwater Holidays (01288 321964, www.breakwater-holidays.co.uk)
has eight properties in north Cornwall, sleeping between 6 and 14. Jeremy Seal
stayed in the seven-bedroom Crooklets View, which costs £750-£2,500
Superior self-catering: the top properties
THERE’S NO association to represent superior self-catering properties,
no badges or brands to look for. It’s a case of studying websites —
my favourites are www.information-britain.co.uk and
www.country-holidays.co.uk — and reading the runes. Websites and
brochures can give you a feel, but we know they can be deceptive, too. There
are other clues, however. It’s a good sign if the owners run the
properties. Small operations with just one or a handful of local cottages
are likely to provide a more personal service than “volume”
businesses managing dozens. And it’s a bad sign if you’re asked
to pay extra for towels, linen or electricity — all included with our
pick, below.
All prices are for a week in high season
1. ARGYLLSHIRE
A beautiful, recently refurbished four-person cottage is available for hire in
the grounds of the food-lover’s Airds Hotel, on Loch Linnhe. The price includes
a full daily breakfast, served at the hotel, and the cottage is serviced
every morning. Book for dinner as you wish and expect to be treated exactly
like any other hotel guest. The staff can also arrange a wide range of
activities, including canoeing, loch-cruising and scuba-diving, or simply point
out some of the fabulous walks in the area.
£1,400 per week; 01631 730236, www.airds-hotel.com
2. PERTHSHIRE
The former home farm of Taymouth Castle, near Kenmore, is now the Mains of Taymouth,
seven superb cottages, sleeping from 2 to 11, in the grounds of the 120-acre
estate. The owners can deliver hampers and ready meals from their own nearby
deli and brasserie, or organise caterers for private dinner parties. Golf,
4WD safaris, riding lessons and white-water rafting can all be arranged.
From £765 (sleeps 3) to £2,652 (sleeps 11); 01887 830226, www.taymouth.co.uk
3. YORKSHIRE
Shoreline Cottages runs 19 contemporary properties, sleeping from 2 to 8, in the
heart of historic Whitby and along the nearby Yorkshire coast. The staff will
collect you at the station or meet you at the door, and are available 24/7
in case of queries. They can arrange visits to attractions or do the shopping
(there’s a small surcharge), and they have a library of DVDs —
they will deliver your choice free.
From £550 (sleeps 2) to £1,205 (sleeps 8); 0113 244 8410, www.shoreline-cottages.com
4. SHROPSHIRE
What was once the stables of Combermere Abbey has been beautifully restored and
converted into 11 self-catering cottages. Evening meals and breakfast or brunch
hampers can be supplied, and there’s a good selection of locally produced
frozen meals to hand. The abbey can also arrange spa treatments. Guests have
the run of the abbey grounds, the tennis courts and the croquet lawn; you
can also borrow bikes and fishing rods.
From £705 (sleeps 4) to £895 (sleeps 6); 01948 662876, www.combermereabbey.co.uk
5. WORCESTERSHIRE
The Olde Rectory, in Whitbourne, was named England’s best self-catering holiday
by VisitBritain in 2005. Guests at the five properties, which sleep from 2
to 10, can request a range of services including visiting beauty therapists
and masseuses, baby-sitting, bike hire and fishing outings. Gourmet freezer
meals are available, and you can help yourself to the wines, local ciders
and beers in your property, then settle at the end of your stay.
From £699 (sleeps 2) to £1,585 (sleeps 6); 01886 822000, www.olde-rectory.co.uk
6. CO KERRY
For serious luxury, try one of the three cottages in the gorgeous 300-acre grounds
of the luxury Sheen Falls Lodge hotel, near Kenmare. You get access to the
lounges, restaurants, bars, library and grounds, as well as complimentary
use of the spa. Other facilities include bike hire, riding and salmon-fishing
on the River Sheen. Fires are swept and reset daily, there’s a hamper
of fresh foods on arrival and dinner parties can be laid on at your property.
€4,160 (£2,900) for The Green (sleeps 10); 00 353 64 41600, www.sheenfallslodge.ie
7. PEMBROKESHIRE
A restored Georgian military barracks converted into six holiday properties, Admiral’s
Mews has an unparalleled clifftop location overlooking Carmarthen Bay. All
the units, sleeping from 2 to 14, have access to a swimming pool. If you
tire of peeling your own carrots, call the in-house chef: there’s also complimentary
golf and a luxury catamaran for the guests’ exclusive use.
From £605 (sleeps 2) to £3,300 (sleeps 14); 01834 870000, www.admiralsmews.co.uk
8. HAMPSHIRE
New Forest Living started last year, with 11 self-catering properties across the
area. The local staff can arrange riding, sailing and golf bookings in advance;
while you’re there, they’re just a mobile call away. They will
also organise shopping services and delivery of hampers of local produce.
From £355 (sleeps 2) to £1,350 (sleeps 8); 01794 390083, www.newforestliving.co.uk
