For fans of French food and wine, there is no better time than October to hop
over the Channel. The countryside is a hive of activity with the vendanges
(grape harvest) in full swing. Meanwhile, rural woodlands are besieged by
mushroom hunters and market stalls become a riot of colour as bright orange
squash and pumpkins are piled high.
Down in the Gers in Midi-Pyrénées, our contributing editor Philip Faiers is on
the lookout for woodlands surrounded by parked cars – a sure sign, he says,
that there’s a bounty of fungi to be found.
“Ceps are the most prized variety and mushroom fanciers know that ten days
after heavy rain is the best time; a few days after a new moon is also a
fruitful time. If the two coincide then be prepared for a bumper harvest.”
When asked for his top tips for fungi foraging, Philip recommends collecting
them in a wicker basket as they will deteriorate in a plastic bag. And
starting your hunt at first light to beat the neighbours and the slugs. The France
Magazine forum is also abuzz with tips for foraging, and Cat quotes www.rogersmushrooms.com
as a resource for identifying the different species.
Our food columnist Rosa Jackson is
full of ideas for preparing mushrooms, but her favourite way is to cook them
slowly in olive oil before stuffing their diced stems with sautéed
anchovies, parsley, shallot and lemon zest. Delicious!
In Burgundy, the harvest of vineyards in the Côtes de Beaune and Chablis is
getting underway. According to David Cogan, who runs the Burgundy
Eye website, it’s best to stay out of the way of harvesters unless
you’re joining in. So, one of the most exciting ways to observe the region
is from the sky in a hot air balloon. You’ll see the pickers hard at work
below, as well as magnificent châteaux, beautiful red and orange forests and
gentle, rolling hills as you float peacefully above the landscape.
Talking of balloons, Janet Rankin of Direct
Corsica is looking forward to seeing the skies over Calvi in Corsica
filled with balloons, kites and paragliders from October 29 to November 2.
The 17th Calvi Wind Festival is aimed at promoting the protection of the
environment and renewable energy sources. On terra firma, meanwhile,
there’ll be artists, painters and musicians performing in the streets and on
stage. And if you’re hunting for some late summer sun, Corsica is the ideal
place to catch some last-minute rays.
With that in mind, Year in the Merde author Stephen
Clarke is heading to his favourite spot on the south coast, Bandol.
Its semi-circular bay, fringing its clear turquoise sea, is the setting for
his latest book Dial M for Merde. He tells me that even in October, the
water is warm enough for snorkelling.
“Take a boat out to the secluded island of Bendor, just offshore,” he says,
“where Daddi Milou's seafood restaurant is right on the waterfront - you can
have a quick snorkel between courses”.
Also down south, writer Wendy Atkins is counting down the days before sampling
the local wine and specialities close to her home in Carcassonne during the Ronde
du Malepère wine festival on 18 and 19 October. If you fancy
hopping over on a plane, the festival will provide you with dozens of
tasting opportunities, street music and an art exhibition. She’s even heard
a rumour that tasting glasses of Malpère wine will be given to those
arriving at Carcassonne airport the week before.
Finally, conkers are falling from the trees around the newly renovated Tour St
Jacques in Paris. The gothic tower has been covered with scaffolding for the
last nine years and writer Jacqueline Karp tells me Parisians are enjoying
the new view of it from the park that surrounds it.
Apparently, the tower glows in the warm autumn sunlight, complemented by the
changing colours of the nearby horse chestnut trees. In the 16th century,
the tower was the gathering point for pilgrims starting out along the route
to St Jacques de Compostelle.
Don’t forget your binoculars for viewing the mythological animals, saints and
devils gargoyles and grotesques that decorate it. If you fancy a bite to eat
nearby, try the Restaurant St Martin in rue St Martin for some simple
cuisine familiale.
Carolyn Boyd is editor of France Magazine
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